Upcycle old wooden pallets into a rustic garden bench

Why Reclaimed Pallets Make Brilliant Garden Seating

There is something deeply satisfying about building something useful from timber that was destined for the skip. Wooden pallets are everywhere — outside builders' merchants, behind shops, sometimes propped against a neighbour's wall waiting for collection. Most are made from sturdy softwood that has already spent years being knocked about, which means it is well seasoned and, with a little care, more than tough enough for a garden bench that will last a decade or more.

Before you get excited and start loading the car, a word of caution. Not every pallet is suitable. Look for the stamped marking on the side of the timber. HT means heat treated, which is exactly what you want. Avoid anything marked MB, as these have been chemically treated with methyl bromide and are not appropriate for a piece you will sit on. Pallets that have been used to transport chemicals, powders or unknown liquids should also be left alone. If in doubt, walk away — there are plenty of clean pallets out there.

What You Will Need

You do not need a workshop full of fancy machinery for this project. A handful of decent tools will see you through comfortably, and if you already own a drill and a saw, you are most of the way there.

• Two or three clean heat-treated pallets (a standard pallet will yield enough slats for the seat and backrest)
• A pry bar or claw hammer for dismantling
• A hand saw or circular saw
• Cordless drill and driver bits
• Wood screws, around 60–70mm, galvanised or stainless steel
• Sandpaper in 80, 120 and 180 grit, or an orbital sander
• Wood filler for any deep splits or old nail holes
• Exterior wood stain or oil, plus a brush

Safety first: wear gloves when prying slats apart, and eye protection when sawing. Old pallets often hide splinters and stubborn nails, so take your time rather than forcing anything.

Dismantling the Pallets Without Losing Your Temper

Taking a pallet apart is the fiddliest part of the whole job. The slats are usually fixed with twisted nails that grip tightly, and rushing will simply snap the timber. Work along the pallet, levering gently at the joints with a pry bar, and tap the underside with a hammer to loosen the nails as you go. If a slat cracks, do not despair — short lengths are perfect for the backrest or for trim pieces.

Once you have a good pile of slats, pull or hammer out every remaining nail. This is non-negotiable. A stray nail will wreck your saw blade or your sander, and it is a nasty surprise for anyone who runs a hand along the finished bench. A quick pass with a magnetic sweep or simply running a gloved hand over each board will catch anything you have missed.

Cutting the Pieces and Planning the Build

A comfortable garden bench is around 120cm wide, with a seat height of roughly 45cm and a depth of about 40cm. These proportions suit most adults and leave room for a cushion without making the seat feel cramped.

Cut your four legs from the chunky corner blocks of the pallet, aiming for pieces around 45cm long. Then cut your seat slats to length, leaving a small gap of 5–8mm between each one so rainwater drains away rather than pooling on the surface. For the backrest, cut slightly shorter slats and set them at a gentle backward angle of around 15 degrees — this is far kinder on the back than a perfectly upright bench.

Before you screw anything together, lay the whole thing out on the ground and stand back. It is much easier to adjust a plan at this stage than to unpick a finished frame.

Assembling a Bench That Will Not Wobble

A bench is only as good as its frame, so start with the legs. Join each front leg to its rear counterpart with a horizontal rail, forming two side panels. Screw through the rails into the legs, and add a diagonal brace if you have a spare slat — this simple triangle removes almost all the flex.

Next, attach the seat slats to the side panels, working from front to back and checking that the overhang is even on both sides. Predrill your holes to stop the older timber splitting. Once the seat is solid, fix the backrest uprights to the rear legs and screw the back slats into place.

Finally, give the whole bench a gentle wobble test. If there is any movement, add a cross-brace underneath the seat. It will not be visible, and it will make all the difference.

Sanding and Weatherproofing for Years of Use

Old pallet timber is rough, grey and full of character — but it needs taming. Work through your grits in order, starting with 80 to knock back splinters and rough sawn edges, then 120, and finishing with 180 for a surface that is smooth to the touch. Pay attention to the edges of the seat slats and the top of the backrest, where hands and arms will rest most often.

Fill any deep cracks with exterior wood filler and sand back once dry. Then treat the whole bench with a weatherproof finish. A clear exterior oil preserves that lovely weathered look, while a tinted stain will give you a warmer, more uniform tone. Two or three thin coats are far better than one thick one, and you should reapply every year or two, ideally in early autumn before the worst of the British weather arrives.

Lift the finished bench onto small paving slabs or rubber feet so the legs are not sitting directly in damp soil. From there, all that is left is to position it somewhere with a bit of afternoon sun, pour a cup of tea, and enjoy what you have made from what others threw away.